In Nepal with 'Angels'
03/08/2009
BBC presenter Steve Carver spends much of his time in Nepal where he runs Angel Holidays – an ethical holiday company that takes travellers on a two week journey around Nepal, visiting ancient cities, staying in the jungle, and trekking in the Himalayas; whilst also raising money for a local orphanage.
Steve presents travel and other documentaries for BBC Radio Four and the World Service.
On a typical morning Steve looks through his window onto a busy Kathmandu street, market traders move hurriedly to open their stalls, traditionally dressed women take children to school, monks in saffron robes walk silently spinning prayer wheels, and the traffic; a heady mix of rickshaws and donkeys, rickety cars, bicycles and horse carts shuttle by. This is life in Kathmandu Valley; a series of verdant green hills, bathed always in sunshine and beyond that; the white tips of the Himalaya.
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Today Steve is getting a shipment of rice organised. A truckload of 30 large sacks, enough to feed his orphanage for several months, and all bought through donations from his ethical company Angel Holidays. It will be a long drive to the orphanage, through bumpy tracks and hills, and parts with no road at all, but to see the children’s waiting faces is all worth it.
He first came to the country a few years ago, working for the World-Service where, amongst other things, he was looking for evidence of Yetis.
‘In fact I found evidence’ he smiles. ‘In the Himalaya I visited a remote village where farmers claimed they’d been attacked by them. I was taken too, to a small monastery, where behind lock and key, they showed me an actual skull of a yeti, and odd conical shape that was unlike any other creature.’ Steve’s been in love with the mystery of the country ever since.
What makes Nepal special is that it was closed off from the outside world until as recently as the 1950’s, so much of its ancient traditions and culture remain intact.
Steve found his first orphanage on the way back from an assignment trying to find the world’s highest refrigerator for a BBC science documentary. ‘It was a programme about how refrigeration had changed the world’ he tells us. ‘From food hygiene to medical storage. I thought it would be quite novel to find the world’s highest fridge. I headed to Everest base camp and on the way stayed in a wooded cabin used by ex President Jimmy Carter – someone else with a fascination of Nepal – and all for just $1 a night – not bad for the presidential suite. Anyway, I did find the highest fridge but it had fused!
On the way back to Kathmandu, I discovered an orphanage that only survived on handouts from the local village. They had a system where small plastic buckets were distributed to surrounding households in which they would put in what rice they could. The children had no shoes on their feet, only old clothes, and such a simple diet, so I decided to help.’
Steve’s idea was quite simple: to give British holidaymakers a real taste of Nepal over a two week break and at the same time donate money to the children.
‘We buy food, clothing, educational supplies and medicine with the money’ he said. It really was a proud moment when I bought them their first school shoes; for many the only shoes they’d ever owned, we took a picture of them all; spruced up in their first school uniforms and new shoes ready for school, it was quite emotional.’
Steve’s aim was to help make the orphan home more self sufficient. He’s built a battery farm on the school roof, where the sale of eggs pays for two carers every week. Children ages range from 3 to 15.
‘On our last trip, Steve says ‘we took holiday makers to meet the kids, who put on a show, with dancing and singing. We gave travellers a pack of goodies each to give to the children, not just sweets, but new clothes, books and geometry sets. Travellers enjoyed the aspect of giving; it was a great day and a highlight of the trip.’
Children come to the orphanage for a number of reasons, but mainly it’s simply poverty. The country is only recently opening to modern times, and there’s only one rudimentary doctor per 12,000’. In the rural communities, cut off with no roads, that take days to reach by trekking, some parents have been lost for want of simple medical treatment. Perhaps a father, who is traditionally the only wage earner, has died of a treatable disease and the mother simply can’t cope, so we take the children in.’
‘We don’t work like normal tour operators’ he said. The emphasis is on the real Nepal and ethical travel. Steve personally leads each group and has a team of Nepalese people with him to run the tour. There’s a jovial Buddhist monk by the name of Losan who comes along, not the usual thing on a tour. He teaches breathing exercises and meditation techniques. There’s also the ever pleasant Pabbi, a Nepalese lady who accompanies each group as well as guides, porters and other helpers, they’re all part of the team. ‘It’s a real adventure, but you’re well looked after’ Steve says. ‘Any age can come as long as they are reasonably fit. In just two weeks, visitors are mesmerised by the variety; from sailing down a jungle river by wooden boat, to witnessing ancient cities or standing up close to the spectacular Himalaya.’
‘We like to give holidaymakers a real taste Nepal’ he said ‘whatever their age. They can join our five day beginners’ trek, where day temperatures are warm, or if they don’t feel up to it they can stay in the lovely Himalayan lake town of Pokhara with hundreds of open air cafes and restaurants, and with lovely views of the Himalaya. They can also enjoy plenty of local excursions in the area. In our last group one lady was 84.’
Steve likes to have an element of fun in the tour. He’s a comedy presenter at heart and has presented several travel documentaries with an amusing edge for BBC Radio Four. His last show (broadcast BBC Radio Four 17th July, 09) saw him working as a courier taking OAPs around Devon. ‘In Nepal I take people into the lower Himalaya or deep into the jungle to spot rhino’ he said, ‘and we never get lost. I wish I could say the same about Torquay!’
Previous comedy programmes have seen him working as a gentleman host (a male ballroom dancer) on a cruise liner as well as driving an Enfield Bullet motorcycle around India. His next Radio Four foray will see him working as a window cleaner on some unusual assignments for Radio Four, in the show ‘Confessions of.’
Back in Nepal things couldn’t be quite more different. Trying to buy 27 pairs of shoes and sizing up feet, or getting lots of children’s winter jackets, does have its moments Steve admits. ‘It’s chaotic’ he says, ‘but what can you do?’
Steve’s now getting ready to host his next traveller’s holiday in October this year. ‘It’s going to be quite special this time round’ he says. ‘We’re going to stay in an old guest house in the centre of an old city called Bhaktapur to witness the Hindu Festival of Light. There’s still no cars in the city. Children singing, colourful lanterns at night-time, bright ribbons everywhere, even dogs are decorated, it’s going to be magical.’
If you’d like to know more about Steve’s trip and possibly take part, the trip cost is just £899 plus flights which they help you find. Please visit the website below for more details. The caption on Steve’s website is journeys that change lives, we think they do.