Discover the Australian Way

By Lisa Young - 04/08/2009

 The menacing Road-Train ploughs through the dust as it heads towards me. They transport cows through this gritty cattle country of the Kimberley region to the ports of Broome and Wyndham in Western Australia.
 
John, my travelling companion, is safely sealed inside the Land Rover. He is laughing at the prospect of me getting plastered in red dust, synonymous with this region.

 

We are on the ‘Australia Way’, a classic new journey through the heart of the Australian Outback. The 1,875km route crosses Australia’s Top End from Broome in Western Australia to Darwin in the Northern Territory. We pass through untamed, remote territory, linking outback towns and national parks that capture the true spirit of one of the most remote places on earth.

 

Our journey starts in the exotic pearling town of Broome. It boasts 22km of white sand beaches, camel rides along Cable Beach and the oldest Deck Chair outdoor cinema in the world. Broome is a quaint town. With no expectations, I was pleasantly surprised by its charm, slightly hippie-ish style and beautiful surrounding coastline.

 

We leave Cable Beach Resort and head east towards Fitzroy Crossing along the sealed Great Northern Highway. We pass through wide-open country, the occasional vehicle and various species of road kill.

 

We refuel at Fitzroy Crossing. Local children clamber on to the Land Rover. The small, sleepy community is located on the banks of the Fitzroy River, approximately three hours drive southeast of Broome.

 

The following morning we leave early and drive until the Fairfield-Leopald Road. The tarmac gives way to a dirt track, which leads to the Gibb River Road. We stop at Tunnel Creek, Western Australia’s oldest cave system. An hour later we reach the 3.5 km Windjana Gorge, that cuts through the limestone of the Napier Range, part of an ancient barrier reef.

 

 The Gibb River Road is a 660km, unsealed and unforgiving dirt-track, the 4WD option of 2 routes that cross the Kimberley region. It passes through the heart of the vast and extremely remote western Kimberleys, and is generally open between May and October.  Notoriously harsh on tyres, with often flooded creeks and rivers, the Gibb is not a difficult drive. You should carry sufficient food and water, car repair tools and extra tyres before heading along this remote outback track.  Part of the attraction of being out here, is the remoteness of the outback, the fact there is no one around for hundreds of kilometers.

 

We stop at the Aboriginal community of Immintji to refuel. It’s one of the only refueling points along the Gibb, selling diesel fuel only. Just 25km from Immintji is the entrance to the Mt. Elizabeth Station. As the sun starts to set animals wander onto the road making driving tricky. Kamikaze cows and fleeing wallabies leap in front of our car. We turn off the Gibb and 30kms later we arrive at the Mt. Elizabeth homestead. You can camp here and the owners offer specialised safaris across their property to the western coastal areas of the Kimberley.

 

With a good nights rest we take to the road. Towards the end of the Gibb is the dramatic Pentecost Range, a stunning rugged backdrop, with the broad tidal Pentecost River flowing below. The riverbank is daubed with signs warning of salt-water crocodiles and strong tidal river currants.

 

This is a major river crossing and a 4WD is strongly recommended. The river is very wide and deep in parts. The brown, croc-inhabited water is soon half way up the door. We bump over rocks – or maybe crocs - and I can feel the strong pull of the river. The Land Rover is heavy and powerful, and we plow through the deep water with ease.

 

An hour later we arrive at El Questro Wilderness Park -  a one million acre property and home to an abundance of amazing experiences. The property has numerous 4x4 off road tracks, hiking trails, horse riding, swimming in huge turquoise water holes, and exciting helicopter tours that only a lucky few have ever experienced. There is also a fuel stop at the El Questro homestead.

 

After a night spent in the luxury of the El Questro Homestead, we continue our drive with a slight detour to the small frontier town of Wyndham. We are greeted by an 18 metre long, three-metre high sculpture of a saltwater crocodile. Set on the tidal banks of the Cambridge Gulf and at the base of Mount Bastion, Wyndham is home to the fantastic Five Rivers Lookout, allowing you to view the paths of the King, Pentecost, Durack, Forrest and Ord Rivers.

 

Our next stop is Kununurra, which offers some of the best adventures in the Kimberley. It is set on Lake Kununurra and the ideal base to explore the Bungle Bungle range, the Ord River, Lake Argyle, the Mitchell Plateau and other sites in the region.

 

Following the Victoria Highway from Kununurra, we leave Western Australia and head to Bullo River Station in the Northern Teritory. The Bullo turning is approximately 130 kms along the highway. It takes about 1 ½ to drive from the front gate to the homestead along a dirt track. The station offers visitors a real taste of station life. Located in the spectacularly desolate Eastern Kimberley region of the Northern Territory, the property is 500 miles south west of Darwin and only accessible by four-wheel drive, helicopter or private charter flight (1½ hours from Darwin).

 

It’s not until we are in the air that we appreciate the size of the place. Later that day we try Barramundi fishing, participate with mustering cattle and catching bulls, swim in rocks pools and explore the property for Aboriginal rock art.

 

We drive 285km to the outback town of Katherine. After 2 hours (175km) we stop at Timber Creek to refuel, then continue along the Buchanan Highway to take in the Gregory National Park.

 

It’s worth exploring the historic pioneering township of Katherine. The ancient Katherine Gorge in Nitmiluk National Park (30km from the town) and Katherine’s rugged and ancient landscapes - which stretches from the Gulf of Carpentaria to the West Australian border – are ideal for canoeing, bushwalk, bird watch, camping and four-wheel driving.

 

Just 30km outside of Katherine on the road to Kakadu, is a picturesque waterfall called Edith Falls (or Lelln). There is a rock pool at the base of the falls, which is worth a visit and is safe for swimming. It is an ideal spot for bushwalking and camping too.

 

We continue on to Kakadu, with its massive rock escarpments, huge floodplains and collections of Aboriginal rock art in the World Heritage listed Kakadu National Park, east of Darwin. We take to the water to discover the territory’s wild side on a cruise along the palm-fringed Yellow Water Billabong to see amazing birdlife and wildlife and massive salt and fresh water crocodiles. We spot a massive 5-metre croc on the riverbank enjoying the morning sun. We camp at the Kakadu Cultural Camp, run by Jenni and Ralph Hunter and take a night boat tour of nearby rivers in search of crocodiles. We are warned not to dangle our arms over the side of the boat for obvious reasons.

 

Our road journey continues on and we drive 2 ½ hours north along the Arnham Highway and the turning for Bamurru Plains (about 47kms/30 mins from Darwin). Bamurru Plains is located on the edge of the Mary River floodplains just a short distance from the coast and the western boundary of Kakadu National Park. A profusion of bird and wildlife are on the doorstep of a unique bush camp that exudes ‘Wild Bush Luxury’ and brings a touch of style to this remote and beautiful wilderness.

 

Bamurru Plains (translated means Magpie Geese) boast the only airboats in Australia. The boats only need a few inches of water to move about on and it’s exhilarating to travel across the wetlands skimming the croc-inhabited water. Hundreds of wallabies roam the grounds. There are 9 raised ensuite safari bungalows built amongst savannah bush and set on the fringe of the flood plains.

 

We drive the last 47km (30 minutes) to Darwin. After weeks in isolation it feels strange to be around so many cars and people. Darwin, which was once a wild frontier town, has developed into a vibrant cosmopolitan city, full of inner city parks, culturally significant indigenous sites, and other natural, historical and cultural attractions and some of Australia’s finest beaches. We soon adapt to city life and drive to Mindle Beach Market for some cheap, but tasty Thai food cooked on the spot, then stroll to the beach to reminisce about our journey of a lifetime through some of the worlds most remote and spectacular scenery.

 

 

Australia Way Fact box information

 

 

Overall package
11 day package, Broome – Darwin via the Gibb river from £1919 per person (excluding flights)
 
3nts Cable Beach Club Resort in Broome
(6 days 4WD Britz Car hire)
1nt Mt Hart (Wilderness Lodge)
1nt Mt Elizabeth Station (Breakfast and dinner)
1nts El Questro (Voyages El Questro Wilderness Park)
1nt Bullo River Station
1nt Bamurru Plains (Working Buffalo station, safari suites, inc meals & beverages)
2nts Vibe Hotel Darwin
 
Austravel: call 0800 988 4834, www.austravel.com

 

For further information on holidays in Australia visit Australia.com

For more details on the Northern Territory, visit www.australiasoutback.com

 

For more details and holiday deals for Western Australia, visit www.westernaustralia.com

 

For more information on Land Rover - log on to www.landrover.co.uk