Guernsey: the history island
By Tony Watts - Editor - 14/09/2009
I’m not sure what I like most about Guernsey. It could be the fascinating coalescence of British and Gallic heritages which comes through in its cultural cocktail of architectures, place names and atmosphere. Or the heady, natural beauty of so much of its shoreline – with delightful sandy stretches interspersed with craggy coves. And there’s the rich history stretching back thousands of years – with dozens of tiny museums and historic buildings telling their tales to whoever has the time to stop and listen. Perhaps it’s the combination of all of that – and more.
Guernsey is smaller than its brasher neighbour Jersey, and slightly more old fashioned. It is also sunnier and a few degrees warmer than the rest of the UK.
With only a long weekend to spend there, we packed our itinerary with assistance from our very helpful guide Gill, and no sooner had we checked into our seafront hotel, the Cobo Bay, than we were off for a long walk along the coast. It was a real pleasure to spot the plants and butterflies different from those we’d expect to see along the South Coast, many living amongst the coastal fortifications built up over several hundred years to protect the island - now crumbling monuments in stone and concrete to when the sea brought danger to Guernsey... not tourists! Getting back in time to see the sun sink below the sea, we ended our day with fish and chips on the beach. Who needs fancy restaurants with that sort of cuisine and view?
The next day we were up early to explore St Peter’s Port, the island's capital. It has a quaint central area where you can shop and dine, with outside markets to explore. Although we had a Hertz hire car, we decided to leave that at home: why drive when there are regular buses covering all the main routes, charging you just 50p a journey?
The back streets are fun to explore, and dotted with charming pubs, cafes and restaurants as well as an interesting array of shops. But we focussed on spending time in two of the main tourist attractions there, starting with author Victor Hugo’s home while in exile, Hauteville House.
Odd doesn’t quite cover it. Bizarre, yes that’s closer. Basically the author spent his waking hours, when not penning masterpieces such as Les Miserables, by converting the rooms of his house in a dozen or so completely different and very extravagant architectural styles. His wife, it appears, moved out. Because of Hugo’s huge standing in France, the place is extremely popular with the French, and the tours are divided between English and French speaking.
Next stop, the Guernsey Tapestry. To mark the Millennium, groups from all over the island worked together on a project to create a tapestry which tells the history of the island, Bayeux-like. As well as seeing wonderful craftsmanship close up, the museum gives you a chance to learn how the Bailiwick has developed from the Iron Age (many tombs and burial chambers still remain) through to the present day – and vividly brings memorable events and episodes to life. Quite brilliant.
That frenzied burst of activity still gave us chance to sample the delights of a local harbourside pub for lunch before jumping onto the ferry to Herm. Every time I’ve been to the Channel Islands I’ve longed to go onto Herm which always, from afar, seems to sparkle like a green jewel in the sea, and the expectation was rewarded.
Imagine a small island, just a few miles round, with no cars, fantastic beaches and beautiful warm water. We managed to walk right round the island, have a nap on a beach, a pint in the island’s very welcoming pub – and still get back on the last ferry. Magical.
The next day was limited for time, so we concentrated on driving right round the island to get the complete picture (it really doesn’t take long!) and then visiting the German Occupation Museum. Readers will be very well aware of the very difficult and often traumatic time that the Islanders (and slave labourers) endured during World War II, and this museum vividly transports you back with powerful short films, audio recordings and some marvellous exhibits. It’s not the slickest museum I’ve ever visited, but possibly one of the most charming.
And that (apart from a couple of very pleasant morning runs along the coast path!) was all we could cram into a 48-hour break, which hardly scratched the surface of what the island has to offer. Next time we’ll definitely look to stay longer. It’s beautiful, very clean and extremely friendly. And no need to change your money or learn a new language!
• Return flights from Bristol from £70, inclusive of all taxes, see the Aurigny link below.
• Cobo Bay Hotel has rooms from £49 per room per night, the hotel's website is linked below.
• More information from VisitGuernsey, 01481 723552, or drop onto their website linked below.